My daughters were promised a trip for their 40th birthday. This is Chava's trip.
After we came up with a rough sketch of where and when, we settled on a Tour of Morrocco with GAdventures. We had a limited time for travel, and organizing the logistics of such an unknown place was a bit daunting. But the non booked trip was still daunting. Chava did most of the layout of the trip because having us work at cross purpose seemed to be unwise.
My usual disclaimers apologizing my lack of skill formatting in Blogger, and that the photos are my own and can be seen in better detail without my narrative by clicking on any of them to get the slide show.
Our epic journey began with a flight to Marrakesh. The tour starts in Casablanca. So we had to deal with the first day on our own and getting a train to Casablanca. And Chava choose brilliantly. This is not just booking a hotel. This was finding a porthole into a different reality.
Once we had settled
on the trip we looked at every book we could get, The best was
Adventures
in Morocco by Alice Morrison
. This led us to find the BBC two part program
Morocco
to Timbuktu: An Arabian Adventure Well worth the
watch, even if you are not taking a trip to Morocco .
At random we managed to book one of the nicest stays I have ever experienced. We fortunately booked a pickup at the airport. This included pickup at the airport, luggage escort, and all tips. (It sounds so easy. It’s not. A whole board game could be created with tipping in Morocco, but more on that later.) I think this may become a habit when I don't know much about my destination.
Transport thru the chaos of auto Marrakesh. I was entranced by the cars, tuktuks, scooters with any number of people, horse drawn carriages, donkeys over loaded, and yes even a couple of camels. Chava with her eyes closed, planning to meet her maker. Our driver was Mohamed, the first of many with this name. He was charming, and loved his country. He offered me a place to live in his village, and C got an offer of coos coos at his sister’s house.
Our vehicle stopped outside of the Medina at a gate that may or may not be called Ph Koutoubia. (Morocco is in another dimension where google may or may not work.) This was a shabby, slightly unnerving place. I started to question some of my decisions.
After a sufficient wait, with Mohamed talking on friendly terms to several people, and not so friendly terms with several others, a porter showed up. This was an ancient man that could out walk all of us. He loaded our bags, and those of another couple, and he set off at a tremendous pace. Chava was torn between not losing our bags, and losing her mother in a crowd of people.
A Riad is a very old style of stay.
We were seated in this courtyard and served Moroccan tea. Tea is not just a drink. We learned so much about Moroccan tea on this trip, and in learning tea, we learned Morocco.
Room registration, escort to the room, and a few moments to regather ourselves. Our room opened straight into the dining courtyard. Upside, no stairs. Downside, the staff hangs out here chatting till all hours.
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| The large bed there were also two loft beds, and a smaller bed. |

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| This was our first breakfast in Morocco In Riad Mouassine. |
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| And this was the little bird that entertained us at breakfast. |
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| Note the plaster and tile work. The outside is usually left plain, It is the interiors that shine. |
Going into the Medina is daunting. It is notorious for getting lost in, with lots of people willing to escort you back to your hotel, for a fee. My solution was to take photos at every turn. The down side to this is that all of the shop fronts disappear when they close. One must make very careful notes. This resulted in me having lots of random photographs that contain so many experiences.

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| This is the blue of Morocco. The sky can be this color. |
Next order of business was food. Oh so many choices. Most of which are up narrow, hard stairs, often with no railing. If you can’t do stairs you are going to find Morocco quite challenging. Chava went ahead to see if the stairs were OK. 2 floors up were OK. But by the time we got to the last bit, the hand rail was falling off the wall. But you know me. I kept going, figuring I could always crawl back down.
This was our first of many chicken tajines. They are as ubiquitous as a hamburger in the USA. And I loved every one of them. Three stories above Marrakesh, watching the sun set. It doesn’t get much better than that.
After dinner we made it to the plaza, making careful notes about how to get back. Drums, shakes, henna women, shucksters. One area was one food opportunity after another. Each competing for our trade.
The nuts vendor in the lead photo was the one place we actually spent money. Partly because we didn’t want to gather too much to haul around. But more because “I don’t have change.” Haggling, lack of change, and generally making it easier to leave some of your money behind is almost a sport here. More on that later. The Medina at this point felt less and less like a place for local purchases, and more and more about the tourist part of the city. But I wouldn't understand this for many days.
Our trip CEO explained so much to us about what to do and what not to do. Like, don't trust the orange juice. Vendors inject water (you know the stuff you are not supposed to drink.) And do not let the henna women take hold of your hand. And do not let them put a monkey on your shoulder. Stuff like that.
The next several photos were from our end of the trip return to the Medina. With a bit more experience, we delved a bit deeper into the bowels of the Medina. There we found so much more richness. I think one could live there a lifetime and still not know it well.
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| This is a cage that protects the plant from cats, motorcycles, and other hazards |
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| This is a typical alley |

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| There are fountains everywhere The Quran calls for the charity of giving water In a place of little water, this is important. |
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Dar CherifaA world class restaurant. More on this later |
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| Tiled stairs inside a door. |
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| Many of the caravansari have become market places The BBC video has a good explanation of how these work. I will be posting more on this later. |
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| I took this photo because it is the exact pattern in a Navajo rug that I gave to Chava several years ago. |
But here is where I started to have my doubts about GAdventures. And I now understand that this is not them, it is how the tour industry works.



























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